Shui restaurant review: A must-visit new venue dishing memorable meals and slick service

You know the old adage about a free lunch? Everything comes at a cost, even if it’s what’s left of your credibility. A few weeks ago I made passing reference to Shui in a review of another Subiaco restaurant. That prompted a very kind and generous email from someone on behalf of Shui inviting me to lunch. It’s one of the wild and wonderful perks of this job, and of working for the State’s largest media organisation, yet an offer you can’t possibly accept if you are to write a review unsullied by bias. So we turned up unannounced about 30 seconds past the advertised 11.30am opening time this week, fearful the closed door and darkened interior meant we’d been hit with yet another Monday whammy. But a staffer buzzing about the bar was the sign we were searching for. Though its name evokes that grotesque “tradition” of chugging beer from a hot shoe, this place is all class. Shui announces itself as an opulent space, and one of the loveliest dining rooms around. It’s unrecognisable from its former guise, Funtastico. The cool dude at the front desk feigns horror when we admit we don’t have a booking. It’s refreshing change from the tut-tutting. This was our second visit to Shui — the first was highly memorable, in all the good ways but mainly because of the prawn crumpets and the massaman beef murtabak (and the company, as always). This time the crumpets, $18 for three, were a fait accompli, and we ordered them with a sense of urgency. They’re a textural dreamboat ride to flavour nirvana: minced prawns cooked into a wee crumpet with that clever crisp base, topped with a squirt of black garlic aoili and some salmon roe. The massaman mutarbak had dropped off the menu this time around — the classic Thai curry this time came with a hunk of slow-cooked lamb shoulder with nugs of roasted carrot, $44. The massaman itself was aromatic and as confident as a curry could be but the lamb was arguably over confident, or at least the kitchen was when it served this hunk of meat with just a spoon and fork. The slow braised meat wasn’t quite ‘there’, and took a bit too much muscle to hack apart. That said, the flavours were fabulous. Vegetarians are well catered for at Shui, with the kind of dishes that sing to even the most devoted carnivore. A big dish of Purple Eggplant Sambal Balado, $21, with potato straws, was as meaty and satisfying as any steak. There is care in the kitchen. The staff are excellent, the wine and cocktail list (given the calibre of the partners in this place) is dazzling. They are open every day for lunch and dinner, which is reason enough to embrace this relatively new restaurant. We love Shui, and were not paid to say so. The verdict: 17/20 A sexy, sumptuous affair. Contemporary Thai that’s not challenging but still exciting. A beguiling space and a great vibe. A must visit. 17 Shui 12 Rokeby Road, Subiaco Open 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30pm-late, daily Contact shuisubi.com, 6244 8198 Bookings Yes